Sunday, November 5, 2017

Moving to Italy: A Walk in the Woods, Part 2



As our walk progressed deeper into the woods that day in Italy, George began to wonder if we were traveling in the right direction. It had been many years since he had walked to the chapel, and he wasn't sure if he had always selected the correct branch of the many forks in the path. Except for the birds, we hadn't seen any wildlife, and the walk through the dappled light under the trees had been cool and pleasant, but I was beginning to tire. Margaret Ann had enjoyed her ride on my back and her high up view of her older brothers as they raced around below her, but she was a healthy, sturdy child, and the bands of canvas from the carrier were cutting into my shoulders. As we kept walking, the morning gave way to midday, and we still couldn’t see any sign of the chapel. It was just about noon that we broke from the trees to look up a steep slope. The chapel stood at the top of the hill. We had taken the wrong path after all, and we had ended up, not at the front of the chapel, but at the back—the lower back. The grass and brush-covered slope went almost straight up. There was no way I could climb it, even without Margaret Ann strapped to my back, so we sat down to eat our picnic lunch at the bottom of the slope. It was pleasant to rest at the side of the path, munching salami and cheese, drinking water, and swatting away the few late-season mosquitoes. James and Paul soon finished, and re-energized, they climbed halfway up the slope then slid back down, pretending they were mountain climbers in grave danger. Matthew and Margaret Ann soon tried to copy them, whining when they couldn’t climb as high as their older brothers. They were tired; it was just about their naptime. We packed up our wrappings and walked back down the hillside to Gabi. We hadn’t arrived at our destination, but we had thoroughly enjoyed the journey.

It seemed that our time in Italy was marked with similar near-misses. We lived within a few hundred miles of some of the greatest art treasures in the world, and yet I remained isolated on a small farm. I didn’t mind. We were focused on watching our children develop and learn, and we were alternately fascinated and frustrated, but utterly absorbed by the farm life around us. It was an opportunity squandered perhaps, but we were intent on trying to establish ourselves in a new culture, not investigate the past. We needed to make our cash last long enough so that George could get a job to support us. We thought that there would be time enough for touring in the years ahead. We were also living on the generosity of my in-laws, much to my discomfort. There was no money for hotels, train fare, or the entrance fees to tourist sights. Like poor people the world over, we were unable, more than unwilling, to take advantage of the opportunities all around us. My ignorance of Italian art remained intact for another fifteen years, but our time in Italy was not wasted. During that year I learned a lot about the nurture of children and life in the Italian countryside, but most importantly, I learned about myself: what I could live without, and what I absolutely needed to nurture my spirit.

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