Tuesday, July 18, 2017

Moving to Italy: Day 3—Coffee with Zio Remo



As we returned from the walk around Gabi, we passed by the old house where Zio Remo was just finishing his lunch. He called us over with a wide grin. His was the old, vine-covered house we had passed on the first day. It looked quaint from the driveway, something out of a Hollywood movie, but as we drew closer I could see that the stucco on his walls was even more chipped and gouged than ours, the old front door sagged on rusty hinges, and a line of laundry hung below the dirty, cracked, front window. We passed under the vines, and George murmured the polite "Permesso" as we stepped over the worn, smooth stoop. Zio urged us forward, "Vieni, vieni."
Zio Remo's house





It was gloomy inside, but light enough to see the worn walls of the large room. Little Matthew tripped where he didn’t notice broken tiles that had sunk into the dirt below. Remo sat us at the wooden kitchen table covered with a brightly-patterned cloth and offered us coffee. I said in Italian, yes and thank you, and I was happy with my ability to speak to him.

I looked around and noticed that we were sitting in the right side of the house. George confirmed later that Remo lived in just half of it, and the rest was even more run-down. Remo had lived in that house with his mother (George’s grandmother) looking after her until her death some years before. The house was now his, but he had no money to keep it all in good repair, so after she died he had closed off most of it. His bedroom was above the kitchen/dining/living room that we sat in, and his toilet was the outhouse we had seen on the other side of the driveway.  

After he'd given each of the children a cookie, and poured us coffee in tiny cups, I asked Zio Remo in careful Italian how long he'd lived there. He looked at me strangely and said, "Eh?"  I repeated myself, and so did he. His smile fading, he asked George in rapid-fire Italian mixed with dialect what I had said. George translated, and I listened carefully to Zio Remo’s answer but only caught two words,” house” and “father”. Remo had been born there, as had his sister and all of his brothers, including George's father, and their father before them, and he didn't know how many fathers before that. George had to translate for me so I could understand Remo's answer. Our eyes and our smiles had connected, but the words had gone wide. 

I realized then that my language was stifled. Words, my tools of communication, were useless for now. I would have to learn much more Italian to reach a point of mutual understanding. Apparently, I could not even ask a simple polite question, nor understand the answer. Up to that point my foreign language skills had been confined to a classroom, where I had received straight A’s. I had taken French and Latin in ninth grade, Spanish in tenth, French in eleventh, Spanish again in twelfth, and a year of French in college. No Italian. Each segment had been learned in a different school, so that I had no practical skills in foreign communication. When I arrived in Italy my education began. 
 
I almost choked when I tasted the coffee. It was a really strong espresso, not at all like the coffee I was used to. If this was what coffee meant in Italy, I figured I’d better stick to tea! When Zio passed a bottle of brandy and invited us to add some, I willingly poured in a dollop then sipped. Much better. So I sipped more and accepted a second cup of coffee and diluted that too. Always a light-weight when it came to alcohol, soon the room began to tilt. I was tipsy. Then all language bets were off. The words I tried to speak, and the words George and Zio Remo spoke, became more and more scrambled, so I sat in silence, watching the children and grinning idiotically as sounds swirled around us. It was just past noon, and I was well and truly soused!

We went home for lunch then put the children down for a nap—and me. I had to sleep off the brandy. When I awoke, my head was clear, so I searched through our luggage for my Italian book and attacked the grammar and vocabulary. I needed to study harder. How could I find out where I fit if I couldn't converse with the people around me? How would I know what they thought, and where our ideas met if the language they used was a wall to me? I recognized my isolation. I still had a distance to travel to connect with the people I wanted to know.  

We were not the first immigrants to face this problem, nor the last. It is not easy to leave common references, similar ideas, and comparable values, to live amongst people who are different. I had read of them, the American forebears: Germans, Chinese, Poles, Mexicans, Italians, and many more. They came to America looking for a better life, but the battle across frontiers was only the beginning. They brought with them their native assumptions, just as I had when I went to Italy. Like me, they owned customs that didn’t fit the new environment, and like me, they stumbled as they learned new customs, new words, and new ways of thinking. They had fought the battles I was fighting. They had reached over gaps and divides to make sense of a foreign land and language. They are still arriving, still struggling, but the people who make that journey are strong and determined. And America, land of immigrants, expands to incorporate them all. I knew it would be difficult, but I thought I was strong enough to break down the barriers to my Italian assimilation—as long as I stayed sober!

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